Hither are some basic, but sometimes disregarded tips on prolonging the life and maximizing your enjoyment of your hot tub or spa.

Following these suggestions volition assist preserve your tub and equipment while making your h2o cleaner, safer and more than articulate.  As an added bonus, it will also save you time and coin!

one. Oil and soap based products are public enemy #1 when information technology comes to keeping your hot tub or spa water crystal clear. Never use regular household cleaners for cleaning the inside or outside of your hot tub or spa.

These products comprise soap and/or ammonia which are both harmful and unsettling for your tub'south water chemistry. They can also clog upwardly and prematurely age your spa equipment and yous could hands current of air up with a giant sized bubble bath if y'all don't become all of the soap out of your spa's water organisation.

2. Swim trunks and bathing suits are also a common cause of foamy and unappealing hot tub and spa water.

Small amounts of laundry detergent remain in bathing suits afterwards they have been washed and dried and the residual detergent ends up back in your hot tub's water supply.

An easy fix for this outcome is to just run an extra rinse bike when yous launder your swimwear or you can always just re-rinse your swimwear by mitt.

three. This is a practiced one that most hot tub and spa owners aren't aware of. When your hot tub or spa is non in use, keep the Air Control Valves closed.   The image below shows air control valves from some of the most popular and well known spa manufacturers.

These valves or dials are usually located on top of or near the elevation of your spa and they allow air to mix with the water coming out of your jets.

This is corking when your spa is in apply, merely not so great when it'southward not.  To paradigm on the correct shows

Too letting common cold air into the spa water and increasing heating costs, it tin can also introduce air borne droppings and algae spores that can deject your water and increases your chemical usage.

4. Personal hygiene products should exist used in the shower and non in your spa or hot tub. Fifty-fifty though this is common knowledge, information technology's amazing how many soakers seem to forget this basic rule.

Hair spray, hair mousse, styling gels, deodorant, anti-perspiration, sunday tan lotion, excess sweat, make-up and skin creams of whatsoever sort volition deject your water and clog your filter, reducing its life and increasing your maintenance time.

5. Floating oil-absorbing sponges such as the Muddy Duck are fantastic at reducing the amount of clogging oils that are sent through your filter.

Think to squeeze them out occasionally and to replace them when they start to deteriorate or when they no longer bladder.

6. Brand sure your filter cartridge is fully seated in the filter compartment. This ensures 100% of the h2o passing through the filter, rather than bypassing it. Call back to make clean the cartridge once a month for maximum longevity and to supplant it every 1 to 2 years.

The fibers of the cartridge start to break down and deteriorate later on a while and won't do an adequate chore of filtration after a while. Information technology's a not a bad idea to have two filter cartridges on hand for your spa and use them on an alternate footing.

This way, while one is beingness cleaned by soaking in a "Filter Cleaner" solution, the other one can exist used in your spa to reduce the downward time of your spa.

7. Brand sure to test your spa water at least once per calendar week and always afterward calculation new water. Make certain that the pH and Full ALKALINITY is within the proper ranges.

This is MOST important. Either arrange the pH and Alkalinity manually each week, or apply "pH Balance".

If you lot're using a liquid test kit be sure to make clean it after every use, continue the solutions out of the sun and to replace them ever year.

Also, always get your sample water from at least 12 inches below the surface. If you're using exam strips be sure to supersede them if they are 6 months by the expiration engagement.

viii. One quick and easy way to vacuum debris from the bottom of your spa is to simply apply a garden hose and siphon it out.

9. If yous have an in-ground spa you know you should never bleed the water if information technology's rained in the last few weeks, or if the ground is wet (if yous didn't know this, glad you're hither). If you do it's very possible that the spa will float out of the ground.

But if yous observe yourself in that position and you need to alter the water here'due south a neat little trick. Drop a sump pump in the bottom of the spa and spread a large sail of plastic over the top of the water.

Equally the sump pump removes the water, run water from a garden hose on top of the plastic. If the hose and pump are running at the same speed the h2o level won't drop and the one-time and new water wont mix.

Your spa or hot tub cover fights the weather all year long and keeping information technology clean and in condition will make it last, wait and perform better and longer.

Dominicus, rain and snowfall all pull out the resins that go along vinyl insulated hot tub covers soft and pliable.

Over fourth dimension, spa covers that are not cleaned and protected become brittle, develop sparse spots and start to rip and tear.

The Encompass Care Tips below will assistance keep your comprehend looking and working great for years to come.

• Continue the Cover Clean – The exterior vinyl needs to stay make clean and conditioned. Use a mild detergent and water solution to clean the vinyl portion of the cover at least twice per month.

• Utilise a Moisturizing Product – Employ a moisturizing and cover conditioning product, such as Kover Care & Conditioner, at least once every two months.

Don't utilise any products with silicone in them. These types of products tin can destroy the vinyl's topcoat, allowing the plasticized gases to escape. Once this happens, the vinyl will exist susceptible to slap-up.

• Wipe Off Chemic Rest – Clean chemical residue from the underside of the cover every chance you go. These residues, if left on the embrace, start to break down the material causing information technology to become porous. Water vapor begins to penetrate the EPS core when its protective layers become also porous.

• Maintain Proper Hot Tub H2o Chemistry – We cannot stress the importance of maintaining proper hot tub and spa water chemistry plenty. Every bit your spa water chemistry is more balanced, the vapors coming off the tub are less corrosive. Making the vapors less corrosive leads to the protective layers of the cover to degrade more slowly, thus prolonging the life of your comprehend.

• Unzip Encompass & Make clean – Make clean just inside the zipper at least twice per yr. Mildew has a tendency to build up here and if you have not kept your sanitizer levels up you may develop this as a problem.

• Remove EPS Cores & Flip Them – It'southward as well important to remove and flip your EPS cover at least once per twelvemonth. The encompass is a protective layering system designed to slow the EPS cadre'southward absorption of water vapor. The corrosive vapors formed in your spa pause downwards these layers over fourth dimension. Past flipping the cores over, yous outset to work on the other side of the protective wrap on the core, thereby extending the full life span.

• Remove Cover for 20-30 minutes Afterward Shocking – As the shock is burning out the Chloramines and Bromimines in your hot tub or spa, highly corrosive vapors are released. Removing the encompass after shocking volition protect your covers materials from premature degradation.

• Never Employ the Handles On Your Spa Comprehend – The only thing handles are adept for on a spa cover is a sales gimmick. Sometime in the life of your spa comprehend, information technology is going to weigh a lot more than than the xx or 30 pounds that it was when it was new. A handle, which has a limited stitching surface area, cannot be expected to motility around some of the conceivable weights of old spa covers and not rip out.

We recommend that y'all utilize the skirt. Our insulating spa covers are equipped with a non-segmented skirt/flap on each half of the cover. This long sew together run provides a more suitable pattern to dissipate the force of opening and/or moving the cover.

• Never Stand up, Sit or Walk on Your Comprehend – Most covers are designed to insulate from estrus loss and to go on debris and clay out of the tub. Y'all cannot walk on a standard spa embrace. Please Note: We exercise offering special spa covers that can withstand as much as 500 or 1000 lbs. of weight.

Unlike others, our hot tubs are manufactured with perfect computerized accuracy and crave absolutely no on-site milling or cutting of the last stave. Each tub fits together perfectly and assembles quite easily in an average time of 1 hour give or take.

*Please notation, the following assembly procedure is a slightly condensed version of the actual included instructions. Diverse size hot tubs of diverse types of wood may have slightly different instructions and But the actual instructions included with the hot tub should be followed.

Important Note – Please read through the unabridged procedure of the manual that comes with your tub carefully before showtime the start footstep.*

Round Wooden Hot Tub Assembly Instructions
To clinch a long-lived and structurally safety tub, a properly designed foundation is essential! To withstand the weight of the tub and water we recommend a minimum iv″ thick reinforced physical pad. If yous take any questions, please contact united states of america for proper and adequate site preparation.*

Stride one: Installing the Suctions

Place the chine joists on the physical pad and so that they are five½" tall and bundled equally shown in Figure 1. Check the chine joists with a level and make any necessary adjustments. Adjacent, put the three dowel pins in i half of the lesser and place the lesser-half on top of the chine joists. Be sure the side of the bottom that is nicely sanded is the side that faces up.

On boilerplate, both suctions fittings are located on the stave wall of the tub (3' autonomously) after tub assembly.

If you lot plan to put one or two suctions in the floor of the tub, it is easiest done before the tub is assembled. If BOTH suctions are being installed in the flooring (Figure 1), they should be separated by at least 3′.

Be sure the location of the suctions does not interfere with the chine joists and be sure the holes are drilled wholly on one board. The suctions crave a 2½" pigsty. If you use a hole saw you will have to drill from both sides of the board. This volition eliminate any tear out from the bottom side.

To install the suctions, starting time slide the gasket on to the through-wall fitting. And so use five wraps to Teflon record to the ½ inch end thread of the thru-wall(south). Do Non apply silicone to the thru wall flange with gasket. Next, slip the male person threaded thru-wall fitting into 1 of the holes.

Employ a dewdrop of silicone to the flange of the straight nut.  Screw the female threaded nut onto the thru-wall torso. Be careful not to over tighten the nut; snug hand tightening should suffice. (If the nut is screwed onto the through-wall as well tightly, the swelling of the wood when information technology gets saturated may scissure the flange, leading to leakage. Repeat these assembly steps for the other suction. At this point it is advisable to consummate any other plumbing that occurs underneath the tub with a street 90 PVC plumbing fixtures and an 8 – 10" – 1.v" rigid PVC piping length.

Footstep 2: Assembling the Base

Put the other one-half of the bottom on the chine joists and then slide the two bottom halves together, pushing them together every bit tightly as possible. Note that the lesser boards are placed perpendicular to the chine joists as shown in Effigy i.

After the lesser is in identify the two plywood strips supplied with the hot tub must be screwed down across the seam of the bottom halves. Identify the strips virtually 3″ in from either cease of the perimeter of the tub. Employ four 1″ screws to secure each strip. Remove these strips after the hot tub is fully assembled.

*Please Note: Failure to utilise the plywood strips will cause trouble in later on procedures.

STEP 3: Fitting the Staves to the Base of operations

Each stave must be properly positioned between the alignment marks located around the perimeter of the floor natural language. You lot will note that in Figure 2, the side of the stave that has a tongue is centered directly on the alignment marks. The side of the stave that has a groove does non line up perfectly on center of the alignment marking.

All the staves keep in this fashion. At that place can be gaps between every stave put on the tub. Do not worry virtually these gaps and exercise not drive the staves on with a mallet. The staves may exist lightly tapped on with enough force to keep them from falling off. Once all of the staves are on, the tub is set up for the bottom, heart and top band (hoops).

STEP iv: Applying and Tightening the Bands

Figure three shows the bottom ring at 43 3/8″ downwardly from the top. In one case all the staves are positioned onto the bottom, lower* the lesser band over the meridian of the tub and into position as shown in Effigy 3, use four to 6 screws or nails to concur the bottom band in position (this may not be necessary on conical tubs that have notches for the bands).

This process is best performed by two people. The middle ring is tightened start and so the top ring is tightened second (Figure half dozen). The lugs should be staggered with no two lugs resting on the aforementioned stave joint, but all in the same area equally to hopefully hide them from view.

Alert: Practice not drive the band back up nails more than ½" into the woods!  After the middle band is tightened at approximately 75%, lower the summit band into place and tighten the superlative band to virtually 75%.

The staves volition be pulled in and onto the floor tongue with minimal stave articulation gaps. If you have irregular stave gap joints, you lot tin can use a rubber mallet to GENTLY TAP the staves outward, on the inside of the tub about the bottom, to even out all of the stave gap joints.

In one case the joints are all similar, so the bottom ring can be tightened as described below ** (Fig. three).  Become around the tub with a record measure and check the height of the band.  Once the band is properly leveled, you lot may begin to tighten the band.  Two people best perform this procedure.

Try to avert stripping the nuts from over tightening. While one person tightens the ring lug, the other person strikes the band on outside of the tub with a dead blow rubber mallet (provide with each tub).  The object is to drive the boards on evenly all around the tub.  Information technology usually takes 4 or five times around the tub to accomplish this.

STEP 5: Finishing the Tank Top Rim

Go effectually the top rim of the tank with either a belt sander to level the top edge. Finally, circular off the inside and outside edges of the top rim, using a router with a quarter-round-over bit.  We at present offer a forest Capping that eliminates finishing the top rim

Installing the Demote

Follow the procedures outlined below to install the 2022 Bench in your tub. All necessary parts have been provided, including hardware and Extended Star Drive #10 Fleck.

Other Tools required include:  a variable speed electrical drill, a #two Phillips head commuter bit, a #10 pilot bit (or 1/8" drill scrap and countersink chip), measuring tape, torpedo or regular Level, and possible Skill Saw or Miter Saw.

The easiest manner to make up one's mind where your Corbels will exist attached to the tub is:

to dry out fit the full circular bench on the floor inside the tub.  Align the first joint of the section in the middle of the stave where your first Corbel will be attached to the tub wall.  There will exist an approximate ½"+- gap between the within of the tub wall and the outside perimeter of the demote.  Marshal the exterior circle of the bench sections together all the way around.  Now mark on the stave where the centre of each Corbel volition exist located on that Corbel'south stave(south).  (The Corbels may split stave(s)).

Knowing the finished bench height, At present you need to determine the height placement of Corbel in relationship to the bench department thickness.

The Corbels provided have been precut for a Ruby-red or Yellow Cedar tub for like shooting fish in a barrel installation of a 17" Pinnacle bench off the floor (25-i/2" measured down from the top of the tub (without Capping)). NOTE:  Teak Benches are i-1/2" thick and volition require the Corbel to be adjusted ½" college off the floor for a 17" Finished Height.

If your DESIRED bench superlative is higher or lower, enhance or lower the corbel appropriately. Note: If y'all are installing the bench lower than 17" off the flooring, then you lot will need to cut off a portion of the long side of the Corbel appropriately to let the finished lower demote height. (pic 4 oval circumvolve)

Ensure y'all measure out the thickness of the bench department (Film 3) at the area where the demote section sits upon the Corbel (Pic iv top red oval).  If you lot are setting your bench height at a different height than 17" off the floor, identify the Corbel against the stave wall (Pic 4), identify a torpedo level on the top of the Corbel (Pic 5), and motility the Corbel upwardly or downward to located information technology level at the proper height, to be able to identify the bench upon information technology, for the finished bench summit you want.

Notation: If you are installing the bench lower than 17" off the floor, then you volition need to cut off the long side of the Corbel appropriately to allow the finished lower bench height.

{{{Finished bench pinnacle, minus the bench thickness (Pic three or 4), equals the pinnacle of the Corbel placement against the wall.}}}

The orientation of the Corbel should be with the long side of corbel placed vertically confronting the stave wall and Short side ninety* of the Corbel orientated horizontally for fastening to the bench sections (Pic 4). Predrill your Corbels as shown in Pics 6 & 7 with a drill fleck & countersink bit.  ( Pic 6 shows a toenailed /angled predrilled and countersunk holes, Moving-picture show seven shows a straight pigsty countersunk)

Refer to 6 unlabeled Pics below for adjacent instructions      (last folio for 3' Top tubs)

Place one 2" Stainless Steel Spiral (supplied) into i of the top predrilled holes of the Corbel and screw the Corbel into the stave wall.  Using a level, brand sure the superlative side of the corbel is level.  Once two Corbels have been affixed with one screw, identify a demote department upon both Corbels to verify the finished bench height and the bench ends (joints) are in the centre of the horizontal Corbels respectively.  If proper, continue with using three 2" Stainless Steel Screws in the remaining three predrilled holes of these two corbels.  Proceed with the installation instructions…

Notation:   If installing a two tiered/split level bench, check your measurements and where the joint of two different Bench section heights would employ the same Corbel, two Corbels volition need to exist installed next to each other.  This is where the Corbels volition dissever two staves for each bench peak.

…Now locate your third corbel on the stave wall and using the next bench section onto the iind & 3rd Corbels, with the first bench section even so in place.  Verify your bench orientation and continue with installing the adjacent Corbel in the aforementioned manor, using these two bench sections leap frogging as you continue around the tub until all the corbels are installed and you are back at your showtime bespeak.

Now that all the Corbels are installed and orientated to be flush with the bench section bottoms, begin placing the Bench sections upon the Corbels for permanent installation.

Installation of the Bench sections begins with gathering all the sections, then they tin can be placed upon the Corbels then adapt for spacing and orientation.  Note:  there should be a i/8" gap between each demote section at the joint, matching the 1/8" gap between the three slats of each bench section.  The gap effectually the exterior of the bench against the wall can be betwixt ½" and ¾".

With all the bench sections orientated how you want them, begin screwing downwards the bench sections using the extended Star Drive #10 Chip & the #10 – two" Stainless Steel Screws.  Locate the screws approx. three quarters to ane inch (3/4" – 1") away from the joint on either side, as shown in (film thirteen, 14 & 15).

As shown in Pictures, place ane screw in each of the four gaps (above the Corbel beneath to be screwed into).  In the gap between the three slats, apply the long Star Drive Bit provided, screw downward and in between the gap, until the screw head is flush with the ¾" board, 1-ane/two" below the surface summit of the demote (Picture show 3). See Annotation below for Split Level Bench configuration.

Note:  IF ii tiered / split level bench is being installed:

Delight check to ensure you are screwing into the Corbel beneath.  The screw placement will change slightly to ensure the bench sections are screwed into the individual Corbels below respectively where the 2 different height demote come up together.

Proper hot tub installation preparation requires that y'all arrange for the following three items prior to installation.

  1. Proper Electrical Excursion
  2. Proper Sized Gas Line
  3. Cement Pads/Foundations for Hot Tub & Equipment

The following are the suggested specifications for installing an ACC controlled Hot Tub System.

Electric Specifications
Single PUMP / GAS HEAT– ACC Controller
-20-amp 240v defended service for equipment with gas heater. – xx-amp 245v GFI breaker (for Controller; Gas heater; Pump; Ionizer) – (total amp draw = 9 – 10 Amps).
SINGLE PUMP / ELECTRIC Heat – ACC Controller
-forty Amp, 240volt defended service for equipment with 5.5kW electrical heater. – forty-amp 245v GFI billow (for Controller with 5.5kW electrical heater; Pump; Ionizer) – (total amp draw = 31 – 33 Amps).
-threescore Amp, 240volt defended service for equipment with 11kW Electric heater. – lx-amp 245v GFI billow (for Controller with 11kW electric heater; Pump; Ionizer) – (total amp draw = 51 – 53 Amps).
-The dedicated electrical service requires a neutral wire, run in compliance with National Electric and/or Local building code, with enclosure for breakers at the equipment location.
-Electric Services are required by National Electric Code (NEC) to be GFCI protected.
-If second pump purchased, please contact us for appropriate breaker size for your organisation.

Gas Line Specifications
Our gas heater requires a gas line sufficient to supply 125k Btu'south of gas, run in compliance with National and/or Local building codes. Note: If an upgraded BTU gas heater is purchased, check with your plumber to ensure a properly sized gas line is installed.

PVC Plumbing Recommendation
If the length of run (distance) betwixt the tub and equipment locations is five feet (5') and up to fifty anxiety (50'), Sch 40 – two" PVC is recommended for the two lines In-fluent (from tub to equipment) and ex-fluent (from equipment dorsum to tub jets/returns). Trenching of plumbing may be applicable. For runs longer than l anxiety (50'), please consult with a licensed Spa or Pool professional person.

Spa Side Command Recommendation
The Spa Side Control comes with a twenty' ribbon cable (longer upon asking if needed) with male (PCB) and female (WiFi) connectors. If in that location is more 5' betwixt the tub and your equipment, you volition demand to run electric Grey 1-1/4" PVC conduit for fishing the ribbon cable through to protect it from burial furnishings or other ecology factors.

Cement Pad/Foundation Requirements for Tub & Equipment

As we mentioned earlier in the "Locating Your Tub and Equipment" department, you will demand a concrete pad or foundations for the hot tub and a concrete pad or foundation for the hot tub equipment.

Our basic equipment package requires a concrete pad of 24″ past 54″, although it can exist squeezed into a slightly smaller area if absolutely necessary.

If you must employ a slightly smaller area, we recommend that you wait until yous have the equipment in your possession prior to pouring your concrete pad.

The hot tub itself also requires a concrete pad or foundation to sit on. For stability and settling purposes, the tub itself should sit on a single solid physical surface. Everything settles over fourth dimension and just like the concrete slab under most homes, concrete settles but remains flat.

Tubs have successfully been installed on blocks, in gravel or on pier block foundations, but the settling process is much more probable to be uneven.

An uneven settling process can concentrate the stress on a single expanse of the tub causing premature cracks and leaks.

The minimum thickness condom requirement for a bones hot tub pad is 4″ thick reinforced physical with a diameter of half-dozen″ less than the diameter of the bottom of the tub. Therefore, a five′ round directly sided wood hot tub would require a four′ 6″ square pad.

The type of ground underneath the pad should be stable also. If the soil has a propensity for expanding and contracting due to farthermost freezing or scorching temperatures, you lot may be required to add concrete footings to stabilize the pad. Checking with a local contractor is an easy mode to detect out whether y'all demand footings or not.

Sunken or semi-buried tubs have also become very popular and they are much easier to get in and out of.

A wooden hot tub easily be installed below grade with a few minor adjustments.

You will need to dig a pit large enough to accommodate the size of the concrete pad and build a retaining wall around the pad to keep excess dirt and droppings from eroding and coming into contact with the tub itself. The retaining wall should be made of concrete, concrete block or 'ground contact' rated pressure treated wood.

Please brand sure that you lot leave a minimum clearance of 12″, preferred clearance is 24″-36″, around the entire tub; a 5′ diameter tub requires a seven′ wide hole. This clearance allows you to pre-assemble the tub in a higher place the pit and so lower it into place.

Tub assembly requires a minimum of 24″ of total clearance around it for proper construction. You may also want to consider adding a sump pump in the pit depending on drainage and basis water.

Installing a hot tub on or in an existing deck is also quite popular, but most decks aren't constructed to suit the weight of hot tub filled with water.

An average hot tub filled with water weighs in excess of 5000 lbs. earlier yous and your friends jump in and we strongly advise hot tub owners considering tub installations on existing decking to bank check with a licensed engineer prior to beginning tub installation.

Hot Tub Location Guidelines

The most of import part of any hot tub installation is proper planning and the first ii steps of the planning process are deciding the ideal location for your hot tub and your hot tub equipment.

The vast bulk of our customers prefer to install their hot tubs outdoors, just our tubs tin can be installed just every bit hands inside your home as out.

Our Hot Tub Photo Gallery is total of unique location ideas, creative inspiration and keen examples of where other hot tub owners have located their hot tubs.

Location of Your Hot Tub

Roberts Hot Tubs has been in business concern for over 42 years and history has taught us that your tub will be used and enjoyed more frequently the closer it is to your business firm or bedroom.

Installing your hot tub on or submerged in an existing outdoor deck is platonic for many hot tub owners, just please be aware that nearly decks are non designed to support the weight of a hot tub filled with water.

We strongly suggest that all hot tub owners considering tub installations on existing decking cheque with a licensed engineer prior to get-go tub installation. Please remember that the boilerplate hot tub filled with water weighs approximately 5000 lbs. earlier you and your friends jump in!

Outdoor Installation Locations

Depending on where you live and the size of your g, at that place tin exist an countless number of ways and places to install an outdoor tub.

That said, there are certain wellness and rubber restrictions that volition influence where your tub can be located.

  1. For stability and settling purposes, the tub itself must sit down on a single solid concrete surface. Everything settles over time and but like the physical slab under most homes, concrete settles merely remains flat. Delight do not prepare your tub or equipment on gravel.
  2. The tub rests on chine joists (sleepers) that nosotros provide rather than making direct contact with the concrete pad. The size of the concrete pad can be 6 inches smaller than the tub's diameter, and so a vi′ bore tub just requires a 66" round or foursquare concrete pad.

Saving half dozen″ on the pad means pouring less concrete besides as insuring that the pad won't protrude any farther out than it absolutely has to. The typical thickness of the concrete pad should be 4″ with mesh wire reinforcement.

  1. The type of ground underneath the pad should be stable besides with 100% compaction. If the soil has a propensity for expanding and contracting due to farthermost temperatures, you may be required to add physical footings to stabilize the pad. Checking with a local contractor is an easy way to find out whether you lot need footings or non.
  2. The overall elevation of the tub is besides a consideration. A 4′ tall standard hot tub will stand a roughly 50″ off the pinnacle surface of the physical pad with some exceptions of our other tubs.

Based on this height, you may want to consider sinking part of the tub into the ground. Sunken tubs are extremely pop and are much easier to get in and out of.

In society to safely "sink" your tub, you will need to dig/construct a tub vault. The vault should take retaining walls to go on any backlog dirt from eroding and coming into contact with the tub itself throughout its lifespan.

We recommend that there exist a minimum 12″ clearance betwixt the walls of the pit and the tub itself; a v′ diameter tub volition need a eight′ diameter pit. Some other thing to keep in heed is that the tub volition require a minimum of 24″, preferably 36″, of clearance effectually the entire tub. This will permit the tub to be assembled higher up the pit and and so lowered down.

Indoor Installation Locations

Indoor installations aren't that much different than outdoor installations, simply they do require a few extra considerations.

The main consideration with indoor installations is moisture and the effect it has on other areas of your dwelling.

  1. Moisture – It'due south common do to employ hot tub insulated covers on outdoor hot tubs and the same is true with indoor hot tubs. Insulating covers save time, money and energy inside and outside, but quite a chip of steam is released when y'all have off an indoor cover.

Steam doesn't play well with other interior sections of your firm, and then you demand to brand certain that the room your tub is located in has good air flow and very good ventilation to include possibly a motorized fan similar to a bathroom.

  1. Chemicals – Along with the steam factor, in that location's also the issue of sanitation and the use of hot tub chemicals. Hot tubs that are used regularly need to be sanitized with chlorine, bromine or a not-chlorine shock treatment in combination with smaller amounts of chlorine or bromine.

These sanitizers tin can produce foul smelling odors that go well beyond the room your hot tub is located in. Ozone is another form of sanitizer that should not exist used indoors. Loftier concentrations of ozone can accrue in the room that your tub is located in and cause astringent throat irritations as well as corrode plastic and printed electronic circuitry.  A motorized fan should exist installed to evacuate the off gassing from the room.

The best sanitizer to use indoors is an ionizer in combination with periodic non-chlorine shock treatments. One maintenance reward to indoor installations is that less clay, debris and pollen become into your tub which might save you lot a few dollars per year on sanitizers.

  1. Leaks – The other big moisture consideration is "leaks." As much as we hate to acknowledge information technology, the possibility of an indoor hot tub cracking, breaking or leaking does exist, and the odds increment every bit the tub gets older.

After years and years of use, a seal or gasket could article of clothing out and cause annihilation from a small drip to a giant flood. We strongly recommend that indoor hot tub owners take special precautions by installing a waterproof flooring membrane and floor drain in the room that the tub and equipment are located in.

If the tub equipment is installed in a garage or basement, it's a very good idea to gear up the equipment in a waterproof pan with a drain to insure that any possible leaks won't damage surrounding items.

Accepting Delivery of Your Hot Tub

Accepting Delivery of Your Hot Tub – BIG BOXES ON A BIG TRUCK

The majority of our hot tubs and consummate hot tub systems are delivered by various Transportation companies (deliveries inside the state of California are usually through DHL).

On the twenty-four hours we transport your tub to yous we will phone call you to let you know that it's aircraft and to tell you the number of packages and the "pro number" (tracking number).

Once the shipping visitor has your shipment at its docking facility closest to y'all, they will phone call you to adjust commitment.   Go on in mind that the size of your shipment is rather large. Complete gas fired hot tub systems consist of three 'packages', the hot tub bands (approx. 60 lbs.), the heater (approx. 115 lbs.) and everything else in a VERY large box (roughly 6′ x four' x three′ weighing about 500 lbs.).

Electrically heated systems consist of simply 2 packages, the bands and the big box equally shown in the picture to the right.
When arranging delivery with the aircraft company there are a couple of things that may need to be considered for an easy commitment. First, allow them know if in that location may exist a problem in navigating a large truck to your home.

Trucks smaller than the standard 'tractor trailer' are bachelor. The second, and more of import consideration is how to go a 500 lb. box out of a trailer 5′ off the basis. Unless y'all happen to take a forklift sitting effectually, you may want to request a truck with a elevator gate.

Please notation nosotros prepay delivery with the freight company to the street curbside with a  lift gate. Many people unproblematic unpack the box right from the curbside (usually this only takes v to 10 minutes).

With a lift gate you tin can generally expect some assistance from the driver in getting your shipment from the truck to the curbside. If you need additional help to motility the packages, when the freight company calls to schedule with you, bring up your needs with them at this time.

Our hot tubs are packaged with the utmost of intendance. Consultation with various shipping companies over the years has resulted in a method of packaging that can withstand thousands of miles of bouncing downwardly the road, crashing into past forklifts, and fifty-fifty hours of sitting out in the rain.

In one case your shipment is off the truck, however, inspect the package carefully for any exterior damage. If whatever damage is seen make note of it on your "nib of lading", takes pictures and improve yet open the package and inspect the contents. Likewise check the neb of lading as to how many packages are in your shipment and Make Sure this is the number you lot receive.

Not-Chlorine Shock

For years, hot tub and spa owners accept been keeping their water crystal articulate past "Shocking" it on a weekly basis with Chlorine or Bromine.

Shocking your hot tub or spa quickly raises the sanitizer level of the spa water, killing off whatever of the bacteria that may be present.

Unwanted bacteria in spa water can cause skin irritation, rashes, odors and cloudy water. The down side of "shocking" your hot tub or spa with chlorine is that it leaves a strong chlorine-similar chemic aroma, causes skin and heart irritation and tin wreak cause bathing suits and hot tub covers to prematurely fade.

The folks at DuPont have come up up with a great alternative product called Potassium Monopersulfate or more commonly referred to as "Non-Chlorine Shock."

The benefits of Potassium Monopersulfate is that information technology is easy and convenient to employ, it maximizes your existing sanitizer efficiency of Chlorine or Bromine by killing and eliminating contaminating waste and it doesn't produce irritating and foul smelling chemical odors.

It restores sparkle and clarity to slow h2o and doesn't bleach or fade bathing suits or spa covers. Information technology also assists with the bacteria killing, with no unwanted side effects.
Potassium Monopersulfate is a powerful, odorless oxygen-based versatile oxidizer that works in conjunction with chlorine, bromine and almost alternative sanitizing systems including ozone.

Sanitizers are used in hot tubs and spas to protect soakers and bathers from harmful pathogens, but sanitizing alone is not enough.  Soaker and bather waste, along with external factors, contribute to the buildup of organic contagion, especially in residential hot tubs and spas.

Two people in an average hot tub belongings 250-350 gallons of water is equivalent to 200 people in a twenty,000 gallon swimming pool! Regular oxidation is necessary to eliminate these contaminants and promote maximum sanitizer efficiency and water clarity.

Potassium Monopersulfate is ideal for oxidizing spa h2o because it reacts very speedily to eliminate bather waste, increases existing sanitizer efficiency, enhances water clarity and soaker comfort. Information technology too eliminates the need to shock the spa with heavy chlorine-based products which cause foul odors, skin and middle irritation and prematurely fades clothing.

Chlorine Only Shocks as well accept a few other significant drawbacks. When used in heavy doses, chlorine can react with contaminants in hot tub water to produce foul smelling and irritating combined chlorine compounds called chloramines.

Chloramines can exist simple compounds similar monochloramine or they can be circuitous similar the organic chloramines. Organic chloramines actually resist oxidation past free chlorine and persist long later on chlorine shocking.

Chlorine shocking too raises chlorine residuals, which are non wanted in a brominated hot tub or spa. This can be a existent trouble if your hot tub is inside, where air circulation is a problem.

One of the large reasons that people use bromine as their master sanitizer is to reduce the chemical olfactory property, both in the water and in the indoor air around the unit of measurement. Potassium Monopersulfate will not cause these unwanted odors when used on a weekly shock.

When used properly, it eliminates chloramines, ammoniated compounds, oils, soaps, perspiration, urine and odors too equally enhances the disinfection and sanitation of your hot tub past regenerating some of the existing chlorine and most of the bromine in the water.

*Please Annotation that Potassium Monopersulfate should non be used during the initial fill up of your hot tub or spa. It is non a disinfectant when used lone and a normal level of sanitizer must already be present in the water for Potassium Monopersulfate to react correctly.

Potassium Monopersulfate from Dupont

The use of Potassium Monopersulfate, a non-chlorine shock treatment, has significantly increased in both use and popularity amid hot tub and spa owners over the concluding 10 years.

The benefits of using a non-chlorine shock like Monopersulfate instead of a chlorine or bromine shock include reduced odor, less irritation to your eyes and peel and it requires just a short waiting catamenia before soakers and bathers can re-enter the water.

MPS was developed by DuPont and acts as a highly effective oxidizing amanuensis when used in hot tubs and spas. When used at full strength, many hot tub and spa owners refer to MPS as the Non-Chlorine or Non-Bromine "Shock Treatment Alternative" because of its effectiveness to destroy and remove contaminants and leaner.

Chlorine Shock

Chlorine is the most widely used h2o shocking sanitizer for hot tub, spa and pool owners because of its ability to quickly and effectively sanitize pathogenic affliction-causing bacteria and viruses.

Surprisingly, only 10 per cent of the chlorine added to spa water goes on to kill living organisms. The other xc per cent of the chlorine oxidizes (destroys) waste products in the h2o, such as sweat, peel particles, and lord's day screen introduced into the h2o past bathers. Chlorine as well has to oxidize dust, bugs or grass, which always seem to observe their mode into the water all past themselves.

The byproducts of chlorine oxidation are chloramines, also known as combined chlorine. Chloramines have a very strong chlorine odor, and they crusade nasal and center irritation. Shocking the water with chlorine volition eliminate excessive chloramines, just information technology requires raising the spa chlorine level to approximately ten ppm.

Later on super-chlorinating the water, bathers must wait until the chlorine residual comes downward to the acceptable range, betwixt 1 ppm and 5 ppm, before getting back in the water. This can take hours, depending on how high the chlorine level gets. It is hard to add just the right amount and the higher the level gets, the longer bathers will take to expect to arrive.

Not-Chlorine Daze

The negative side-furnishings of using chlorine as a sanitizer take many hot tub, spa and pool owners turning to non-chlorine or hybrid chlorine/bromine sanitizing and shocking alternatives. Monopersulfate is a not-chlorine stupor treatment that has become very popular with hot tub and spa owners and requires only a short waiting period before soakers and bathers tin re-enter the h2o.

It also cuts down on the odors and irritation caused by elevated levels of chlorine. With the rising popularity of mineral purification systems, the increase of hot tub and spa owners switching from chlorine to not-chlorine shock treatments is growing faster than ever before and shows no signs of slowing down anytime in the near future.

Using Monopersulfate With Chlorine

Monopersulfate tin can eliminate wastes in hot tubs and spas without the unpleasant side effects of chlorine. While it cannot effectively sanitize or impale all bacteria in a hot tub or spa, monopersulfate tin effectively be used to shock the water.

This allows soakers and bathers to return to the water much sooner than with chlorine shock, typically less than 30 minutes subsequently the monopersulfate stupor has been added to the water. Monopersulfate eliminates impurities through oxidation, while conserving the chlorine balance for killing leaner.

Another added benefit is that monopersulfate doesn't leave behind any irritating or unpleasant byproducts when it oxidizes wastes.

Using Monopersulfate With Bromine

Another pop choice for sanitation in hot tubs and spas is bromine. Bromine is a good alternative to chlorine considering it's more stable in hot water, doesn't produce the aforementioned strong chlorine odour and is still an effective sanitizer.

Bromine is slightly more expensive than chlorine, but the benefits are worth it to many hot tub and spa owners.  In a bromine organisation, Monopersulfate is an activator for the bromine that has been used upwardly and converted into a non-agile form.

Monopersulfate oxidizes waste as in the chlorine system, but it also has the capability of reactivating the bromine. This allows it to begin sanitizing and oxidizing your h2o all again, whereas chlorine is not capable of this type of reactivation.

As with chlorine, using monopersulfate with a bromine system has the added benefit of allowing soakers and bathers to return to the water faster than with Chlorine or Bromine only stupor, typically less than 30 minutes after the monopersulfate has been added to the water.

Using Monopersulfate with Mineral Purification Systems – Another popular and growing grade of not-chlorine culling sanitation is Mineral Purification Systems. These systems use dissolved minerals such as copper to kill algae and silverish to kill bacteria.

Minerals can keep your hot tub or spa water safe from pathogenic organisms, merely minerals are incapable of destroying waste products and droppings. Using monopersulfate with your mineral purification system solves the oxidation problem and leaves a residuum corporeality in your system to oxidize time to come wastes and debris.

Monopersulfate dissipates very quickly in the presence of high levels of chlorine or bromine, but the remainder levels stay in place much longer in mineral purification systems where the levels of chlorine and bromine are much lower.

Testing Monopersulfate Levels – In gild to maintain articulate, make clean h2o, the Monopersulfate level should be measured afterward each use, especially if information technology is existence used every bit the chief shocking agent. This ensures proper oxidation of wastes and safe articulate water for soakers and bathers.

Testing Tip – Since chlorine is a strong oxidizer, the readings on most monopersulfate testing kits are tainted due chlorine interference and can crusade false positive test results. The flim-flam to getting an accurate reading in the presence of chlorine is to use a subtractive testing method.

Buy a test kit that allows you lot to mensurate both the water chemistry'southward total oxidized value and the chlorine level. The total oxidized value measurement includes both chlorine and monopersulfate.

The chlorine level exam measurement detects the chlorine, but not the level of monopersulfate. Subtract the chlorine level from your full oxidized value measurement and you will get an authentic reading for your hot tub or spas monopersulfate level.

Bromine
When bromine is added to a hot tub or spa,  it's in the form of bromide ions. It's then activated with an oxidizer to course hypobromous acid. Hypobromous acid is the killing grade of bromine.

When hypobromous acid reacts with an organic contaminant it's reduced dorsum to bromide ions.   The bromide ions can then exist reactivated back into hypobromous acid by the addition of an oxidizer.

This is somewhat of a continuous cycle with bromine sanitized spas.  If 100 per centum of the bromide ions became hypobromous acid and 100 percent of the hypobromous acid returned to bromide ions, you lot would never over again have to add more bromide salt.

But hypobromous acrid tin can react with certain chemicals in the water that tie up the bromide ions and prevents them from becoming free bromide ions in the h2o.
This happens when hypobromous acrid produces bromate or bromoform for case.

At that place are many other combinations that tie upwardly the bromine then it tin can't become a free bromide ions. For this reason more bromine table salt or bromide ions demand to periodically be added. The level of bromide ions should not go below fifteen ppm.

The ground backside 2-part liquid bromine sanitizing systems is to add together a salt of bromine (sodium bromide) to the water to become bromide ions and then oxidize the bromide ions with an oxidizer.

Common oxidizers include monopersulfate (MPS), hydrogen peroxide, percarbonate, ozone or any compound of chlorine to produce hypobromous acid.

You demand a minimum of xv ppm of bromide ions for an oxidizer to piece of work and to provide a "bank" of bromide ions for an oxidizer to react with.  Bromine tablets are typically 1-bromo-iii-chloro-v,5-dimethylhydantoin.

When added to water they hydrolyze to become hypobromous acid. With bromine tablets a split up oxidizer is not necessary to make hypobromous acid, it is already an ingredient in the tablets.

When the hypobromous acid reacts with a contaminant and is reduced, it becomes a bromide ion. You then get a build-up of bromide ions in the h2o. Afterward a while, you could just get-go calculation an oxidizer to reactivate the bromide ions to hypobromous acrid, but about people don't, they just add more than bromine tabs.

Currently, in that location is no way to test h2o to observe out how much bromide ions are in information technology. This is because the same test that measures bromide ions besides measures chloride ions and all h2o has chloride ions in it. Other than making an educated guess, in that location'south no manner to tell when the bromide ion level is too low.

The ii-role bromine manufacturers know this and recommend that y'all add some bromide ions or liquid bromide salts every few weeks or so.  Realistically, a bromine sanitized spa tin't exist switched over to chlorine, if there's still bromine in the water. All the chlorine added to the water is going to convert bromide ions into hypobromous acrid.

Equally long as in that location's 15 ppm or more of bromide ions in the water, all the chlorine added is going towards converting bromide ions into hypobromous acid, none of information technology will provide a chlorine residual.

The spa will proceed to be bromine sanitized until the bromide level gets below 15 ppm. But at that place is no test kit for measuring just bromide ions in the water and therefore no manner to know when the bromide level is below fifteen ppm. It could take a week. Information technology could take two months.

Maintaining a Bromine Sanitized Spa
There are typically two types of bromine systems, a 2-stride system and a iii-pace system. With a ii-step system sodium bromide, either granular or liquid, is added to the water. An oxidizer, such as chlorine or not-chlorine shock (MPS) is than added on a regular ground to oxidize the bromide into bromine.

Ane of the more popular 2-step bromine systems is the Enhance/Activate Sanitizing Organisation. It's chlorine gratuitous and like shooting fish in a barrel to use, but does require some daily attention to maintain proper bromine levels in the water.

A iii-stride system is similar to the 2-step, but also uses bromine tablets in a floating feeder. Bromine tables consist of a combination of sodium bromide and an oxidizer, typically chlorine. The iii-step system requires less attention and maintains more constant levels of bromine in the water, but costs more than the 2-step system.

A two-footstep system with an efficient ozonator might be able to attain the constant bromine level without the employ of, or by using less oxidizer (MPS or chlorine) since the ozone is constantly oxidizing the sodium bromide while information technology is on.

Notwithstanding, the ozone may besides deplete the bromide reserve more than quickly, leading to the utilize of more sodium bromide, or a shorter time between necessary bleed and refills. Also, ozone can cause bromates to form in your water. Bromates are a suspected carcinogen in drinking water.

To begin a bromine sanitized system on a freshly filled spa the first matter needed to exist done is institute a bromide ion reserve of 30 ppm. This can exist accomplished in a number of ways.

  • Allowing bromine tablets in a floating feeder to naturally dissolve until there are sufficient bromide ions in the h2o (it could take weeks for proper bromide levels to exist established, and until that fourth dimension, the spa will actually be sanitized with the chlorine contained in the tablets).
  • Trounce upwardly 5 or 6 bromine tablets and add the "crushings" to the water (this can be a bit expensive, and likewise adds a big amount of whatever other chemicals are in the bromine tablets to the water).
  • Add together 99% granular sodium bromide at the rate of i/2 oz. per 100 gallons of water.
  • Add together 32% liquid sodium bromide at the rate of 4 oz. per 250 gallons of water.  With either arrangement the water will need to be shocked on a weekly basis. Shocking is done to completely destroy any organic material in the water and is accomplished past adding plenty chlorine or non-chlorine shock (MPS) to raise the bromine level to in a higher place ten ppm.

Unproblematic Stride past Step

  • Upon initially filling, balance the water (arrange TA and pH and calcium).
  • If yous take metals in your water add a metal sequesterant.
  • On each fill add together sodium bromide to the h2o (following manufacturer's directions on dosing, you'll end upward with about a xxx ppm concentration of sodium bromide ions).
  • Daze with your preferred oxidizer (chlorine or MPS) and turn on the ozone if you are using it. Your bromine levels should be above 10 ppm (wait until they drop below 10 ppm to use spa).
  • If using a three-pace system add your floating feeder with bromine tablets and adjust information technology to maintain a four-6 ppm bromine level. If using a 2-stride organization add your preferred oxidizer equally needed (and adapt your ozone) to maintain a four-6 ppm bromine level.
  • Shock weekly to burn off organics that collect in the water (if y'all are using ozone and your bromine levels are staying at 4-six ppm then you lot may exist able to daze less oftentimes).
  • Examination bromine and pH each time you lot apply the spa. Test all h2o parameters (bromine,pH, TA, Calcium Hardness) weekly.
  • Drain and refill near every iii-4 months.